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THE
ALPINE ROUTE |
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Lee
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Updated 1st September 2010 |
"Run By Trampers For Trampers" |
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By Amanda Goodall
September 2005
Lee
It
was a misty start to the day as we found the sign marking the beginning of the track at around
It
was decided early on that we would take the "cheats" way and gain access up the Lee Valley
through forestry roads that would get us to within a 1 ½ hour walk of Starveall Hut. The idea of
walking 6 hours from the Hackett carpark was not an appealing one and when we arrived at Starveall
Hut by
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Tasman Bay From Starveall Hut |
After
an early lunch, out came the over-trousers as there was quite a ferocious wind blowing through the
saddle around the hut. The route climbed steeply through stunted bush and over rocky outcrops for an
hour or so and then gained the tussock-covered ridge leading to the sign-posted junction pointing
the way to Slaty Hut. We had been to the summit once before on a more pleasant day so opted for a
few quick photos and then dropped into the bush for a break from the wind.
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Ridge From Starveall Hut Towards Slaty |
The
forested saddle on route to Slaty crossed a couple of clearings with some good views across to the
Rintouls and Purple Top. A steady climb and then sidle led back into open tops and around the side
of Slaty Peak to Slaty Hut nestled right on the bushline. Slaty is a great wee hut in a really
pleasant setting and has a wood shed fit for a king.
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Slaty Hut |
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Little & Big Rintouls |
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Waiau Plains |
Slaty
Hut to Old Man Hut
We
couldn't believe it when we stepped outside the hut in the morning and felt snow flakes falling!
After a sidle under
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Ada Flat & Old Man On The Right |
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Mt Starvell & Tasman Bay |
When
we emerged from the bush the visibility was pretty poor and it was a case of stopping at each pole
and trying to spot the next one in the gloom. Thankfully, it didn't seem to take long to reach the
sign-posted junction and water tank at the top of Old Man, handy for a drink stop. The route
followed the ridge which became a bit scrambly in places and eventually dropped off as the
side-track began down to Old Man Hut. This track drops a lot of height but the thought of a warm
fire after a day of wind and snow showers was a very welcome one. Old Man Hut is set in a large
grassy clearing and would be a lovely setting on a warmer day than this one!
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Old Man Hut |
Then The Snow Came |
That
night it blew an absolute howling gale around the hut and after a relatively sleepless night we rose
in the morning to decide whether in fact we should continue over Mt Rintoul to complete the Alpine
Route. A very cold wind was still blowing and snow showers continued to fall. Add to that the big
pile of dry firewood and we made the call to stay put and possibly do a day-trip up Little Rintoul
in the afternoon if the weather cleared.
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Old Man Hut In Clearing From Little Rintoul |
Ridge Between Liitle Rintoul & Old Man |
I
spent a leisurely morning watching a mother and extremely well-fed baby goat (nicknamed Lard Ass)
grazing around the clearing outside the hut. After lunch we threw some stuff in a pack and set off
for the bushline with hopes of getting some good photos. Once back to the main ridge the track
climbed and emerged onto blocky scree with poles leading the way to the top of Little Rintoul. From
the top we got some awesome views back towards Mt Starveall and
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Mt Rintoul From Little Rintoul |
Old
Man Hut to Mid Goulter Hut
Overnight
we heard a bit of rain on the roof but when morning dawned were amazed to find an inch of snow on
the ground and it was still snowing steadily! As it turned out we could have gone over Mt Rintoul
the day before but would have had a miserable day on the tops today. Instead we opted to drop down
the route into the
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Mid Goulter Hut & Mt Patriarch |
Mid
Goulter Hut to Goulter Road-end
Down-river
from the hut the valley widened and crossed many open river flats beside the river. The day dawned
beautiful, warm and sunny and this part of the walk was extremely enjoyable. We had plenty of time
to enjoy the sunshine as Peter from
Half
an hour before we reached the Lower Goulter Hut the clouds started to roll in again and with
precision planning, 5 minutes after we reached the hut a huge hail storm belted down outside. The
ground around the hut turned white so the idea of having a wash in the river no longer seemed like a
good one and we instead polished off what was left of our food and had a hot chocolate. The
temperature outside must have dropped by 10 degrees in about the same number of minutes!
Knowing it was a 45 minute walk to the road-end, we left it as late as possible before leaving as it was still about 5 degrees outside and there's no shelter at the car park. Peter from Nelson Lakes Shuttles duly picked us up and delivered us to the pub in Renwick where our ride back to Nelson was waiting to meet us. Not a trip that went according to plan but enjoyable nonetheless.
Photos by Amanda Goodall
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"Run By Trampers For Trampers"
For further information contact:
Peter & Trish Kemp
Nelson Lakes Shuttles
P.O. Box 75
St Arnaud 7053
Nelson Lakes
New Zealand
Phone: +64 (3) 521-1900
Mobile
021 490095
Email info@nelsonlakesshuttles.co.nz